Softer or smoother?
A peel will provoke an accelerated exfoliation of the
skin. It will smoothen the skin by inducing key activity at
the skin “construction” level, the basal layer. Either a
chemical agent (acid) can produce that effect or a natural
acid found in fruits, trees or other natural elements.
The goal is : bringing a bright aspect back on the face,
neck and hands by giving a smoother feel to the skin, a
younger appearance and a more homogeneous color. The sun is
unfortunately the main aging factor, often a very rapid one. A
peel is a short procedure giving good results needing a close
monitoring during the application process.
Three main peel categories:
- Superficial, or soft peels, also called “Lunch Peels”.
- Medium Peels
- Deep Peels
The most common active ingredients or acid types are:
- Superficial peels: Fruit derived acids (AHA or organic
based)
- Medium and deep peels: TCA (trichloro-acetic Acid) from
15% up to 40%
- deep peels: Phenol
The follow-up period depends on the peel type:
- Back to normal daily activity right after the Lunch Peel
- Down time (not able to maintain normal activity for up
to 2 weeks) during the resurfacing time after a medium or deep peel.
The skin could remain pink for up to 3 months.
Peels accelerate skin renewal by external exfoliation. The
superficial skin layer is taken away inducing a reconstruction with
less irregularities and a smoother surface. Dilated pores are
reduced, excess sebum is dried out, sunspots and blackheads are expelled as well.
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The use of peels requires a lot of experience and care.
Our skin has specific boundaries that could be easily and rapidly
trespassed if a peel’s key steps are neglected. That’s why you must
consult with an experienced professional who has developed an
expertise in chemical peels of all types.
Do not misinterpret a peel offered in a beauty salon with a
medical grade peel performed by an experienced professional.
The beauty salon peels are comfortable and relaxing, the medical
ones will be a bit harder but will provide you with much more
significant results. They require precision and minutia.
Peel Descriptions:
1) Glycolic
Acid Peels or “Lunch Peels” (30, 50 or 70% concentration)
Glycolic Acid peels (AHA or fruit acid peels) are the most
popular because they do not leave marks on your skin. They are quick
and easy, that is why they are called “Lunch Peels”. They can be
done during your lunch break and nobody will notice. Their safety is
well known. The
Lunch Peel,
doesn’t need a down time or a follow-up period. If you have 30
minutes in your busy schedule, this peel is right for you. You will
like its results but to be totally satisfied, you will need between
4 and 6 sessions over a 6-week period.
Other peels use chemical agents such as TCA (Trichloracetic
Acid) or phenol. They are limited to
physician’s use only.
Be
careful!
A Lunch Peel session has six major steps:
a) -
Make-up removal
b) - Pre-peel solution is applied on the skin; it
lowers skin pH to 4.5
c)
- Peel applied on the skin for a limited amount
of time. Usually an increasing amount from session to session.
d) - When the timer rings: neutralization occurs.
It’s the important step. Without it, a peel would become dangerous.
We have seen patients treated in centers where this step had been
omitted: they were seriously burnt.
e) - Isotonic spray applied on treated area
f)
- Anti-oxidant mask applied on treated area.
Must be kept intact for 12 hours.
Finally, a lunch peel session lasts 30 minutes.
Key Indications: Dilated skin pores, blackheads, grayish
skin tone, skin fatigue, superficial and fine wrinkles
Recommended Price per session: $99
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2) TCA Peels (trichloracetic acid).
Several concentrations exist: 15%, 25%, 30% and 40%.
Some TCA Peels are already prepared by cosmetic
laboratories, ready to use.
Physicians, based on published formulas, can
reconstitute their own in the office.
Our centers use only laboratory manufactured and
controlled peels.
a) 15% TCA:
This peel type gives a new freshness to your skin.
It tightens skin pores quite efficiently giving a
smoother feel to the skin. Perfect for fair skin individuals,
it may be used year around but requires sunscreen for 3 months
if applied during the summer season.
Key indications:
- Brown/sunspots,
- Dilated skin pores
- Grayish skin tone
-
Fine wrinkles
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Treatment frequency:
Initial « attack » phase: 4 sessions every other week plus 1-2
sessions each month for 2 months month for a total of 6-8
sessions over 6 months.
Session Duration:
30 minutes
How is your face after a 15% TCA Peel? :
Your face will be red for 2 days (like after a sunburn), then
it will turn brown for 1 to 2 days and then your skin will
fall off (large exfoliation sections like scabs) for up to 3-4
days. Then your skin may look pink for 7 to 10 days.
VERY IMPORTANT RECOMMENDATIONS:
a)
Please do not expose your face directly to
sunlight without sunscreen (SPF 40+, 60 is best) during the
peel process.
b)
Do not pull on scabs or bits of peeling
skin. Let them or let your skin fall off by itself. If you
pull on your skin you will get scars or long-term marks, even
skin discoloration. So, no pulling, no itching, no sun without
sunscreen.
Most frequently treated areas : face, neck, décolleté, hands
and forearms.
Recommended Price :
$220.
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b) 25% TCA :
Slightly more concentrated than the previous one, it is a
stronger and harder peel and a bit more difficult in the
follow-up phase. Only an experienced physician should perform
TCA peels (Aesthetic Physician, Dermatologist or Cosmetic
Surgeon).
This type of peel is often presented in kits including
ingredients that make it more homogeneous and help minimize
its irritating effects. The 25% TCA Peel lets us concentrate
on the most affected areas by modulating its intensity based
on their aspect.
Indications:
- Age spots / sunspots
- Freckles
- Brown spots from a pregnancy (melasma)
- Keratosis (hardened skin)
- Wrinkles and fine lines
- certain scars (superficial ones, some acne scars)
Treatment protocol:
One session between November and March. Two
sessions per year could be used if a particular effect is
expected (i.e. reducing acne scars on chin, jaw or forehead)
on scars or wrinkles.
Session Duration:
30 minutes
How is your face after a 25% TCA peel:
The initial phase is similar to the 15% TCA. But, here an
oedema appears during the first 48 hours and should last about
one week. Since your face is not at its best for about 7 days,
you should take a week off to manage the follow-up period.
People who want to use this peel prefer to start a Friday so
they are back to work the second Monday. A sunscreen is
ABSOLUTELY necessary for the following three months.
Most frequently treated areas : face and neck
Recommended Price: $290
30% and 40% TCA are stronger versions of the
above-described peel. The follow-up phase is similar to the
25% peel but a bit more intense.
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3)
Phenol Peels :
These peels use a lipophillic agent (phenol) to
exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. More effective on oily
skins, it is a very potent peel, one that requires great care
and commitment to patients’ monitoring during the following
week; It’s main indications:
-
acne, acne scars,
- rosacea
- Wrinkles on upper lip and lower eyelid
Professionals who use Phenol Peels are able to modulate
intensity based on the aspect of the target area. Skin
exfoliation is consequently adjustable. It is crucial to
monitor a phenol peel very closely to be able to
neutralize it as soon as the appropriate layer in the
skin has been reached (intense heat). The follow-up
period of one week will bring the patient back to the
clinic the next day and every other day up to day 7, to
check on the skin status. When the skin falls off, a
yellow powder (to prevent infections and to promote skin
reconstruction) will be applied. Risks and side effects
are similar to those observed in TCA 25%+ peels. A
significant edema may be observed for 48-72 hours. For
upper lip indications, a local anesthesia is usually
recommended for added comfort.
In order to minimize the dual tone skin effect, a 15%TCA
is usually added to the phenol treated areas (i.e. upper
lip and lower eyelid).
A phenol peel takes about 45-60 minutes on Day 1.
Another 30 minutes will be necessary on Day 2, 15
minutes on Day 4, 6 and 8. A patient who undergoes this
type of peel should be invited to come back, at any time
if he/she feels to.
The new skin, smooth and soft will be pink for 3 months
(fades away) and will be sunscreen protected for up to 6
months with 40+ SPF.
Recommended Price:
$980
(+ the cost of the 15% TCA at $220=
Total $ 1,200)
Other
Peels :
Some creams are available through retail or the net.
Depending on your skin phototype or complexion and on
the issue you wish to solve, at home kits may or may not
provide a decent solution. Some preparations with
pyruvate or resorcin or Unna preparation are acceptable
but you should consult your physician first
Elevated phototypes, darker skin people, could use
Kruelig’s peel but should seek advice first to avoid any
inconvenience.
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